Becoming a regular at the Dock Kitchen…

On my way to my annual Italian summer holiday, I had with me a copy of Stevie Parle’s book: ‘My Kitchen, food from near and far‘. 
I did not think much of a cookbook as a holiday read so I started flicking through the pages while on my flight. 
Two hours later, I was completely sold to Stevie’s approach to what is more than a cookbook. Is a travel book with food, is a recipe book with travel information, is a friend’s description of his passion for world cuisine, fresh ingredients, seasonality and sustainability. 
Once back in London I started reading up on Stevie and found out that after a successful stint with a ‘pop up’ restaurant, he was now stable somewhere by the docks in Ladbroke Grove. I couldn’t wait to try it!
photo.JPGOur first visit in November to the Dock Kitchen did not disappoint. The venue is very attractive, on the floor above Tom Dixon‘s design shop, with large windows overlooking the canal and the courtyard. Supper club style, the evening menu was built around Sri Lankan food and was called ‘Flavours of the subcontinent’. 
photo.JPGThe two starters, of which the best one was a fresh indian salad with a flat bread and preserved lemons, was delicious. Light, yet rich in aromas and fresh curry leaves. 
My main was a pigeon biriani, which I liked too – the rice was well cooked, the flavours well balanced. My only criticism would be the meat – there were still some bones in it! The other main was coconut crust roast cod, a large portion with a side of sweet potato and preserved Then came the dessert… it didnt sound too appealing on paper (cardamom milk) but it was simply wonderful. The milk was gently scented with the spice’s pungent aroma, the crunchy almonds added texture and the pomegranate seeds added a splash of colour. I loved it!

So a few weeks later we went back for a pre-Christmas dinner. 
photo.JPG My starter was made with farro and was really nice although I now forget (beginner’s mistake) the details of the sauces.
photo.JPGphoto.JPG The main was braised beef on a bed of chickpea mash, which was well cooked and came off the bone but maybe slightly heavy. Yet the portions were huge and generous. 
photo.JPGFor dessert, I opted for a blood orange and negroni granita, which I thoroughly enjoyed, although my husband did not fully enjoy his bread and butter pudding, which was made with panettone and was a little dry. So our second visit wasn’t as rewarding as the first one. Strangely, the service was not on a par either – maybe a night off? Stevie was not cooking that night so that might explain it.

Still, I wasn’t deterred and for my sister’s London weekend, I booked another dinner at the Dock Kitchen. On World Book Night we made our way across London again, on a cold and dreary March night. 
By now, the formula has changed and a full a la carte is available together with the week’s supper club theme. Last saturday, the theme was Viareggio with sustainable fish dishes. The three of us actually opted for the a la carte dishes, choosing different things to be able to taste as much variety as we could. 

photo.JPGFor starters, myself and Rob opted for palourde clams (vongole veraci) on toast – this was pretty good and reminded me of the saute’ di vongole I usually eat back home. 
Luci enjoyed a kerala inspired tomato thom, which had mustard seeds and fresh curry leaves and was delicately flavoured. We also enjoyed a starter from the Viareggio menu: a sea kale, bottarga and olive oil from southern Italy. The olive oil was very good and the kale delicately blanched, while the bottarga was fresh and added saltiness and texture to the vegetable. photo.JPGMains arrived. Luci’s pork chop was huge and well cooked, tender and juicy, on a bed of gratin fennel. Rob’s curry cod with okra was good and spicy to the right level but for him, slightly undercooked. 
My main of gnudi with lime and pine nut and agretti was just to die for – unreal. I had to get up and tell Stevie how good it was! 

photo.JPGFinally the desserts. We had four different dishes to try: Nigel Slater’s lemon merengue which was fantastic, rhubarb fool which was just as good, cenci with mascarpone which reminded us of our Italian carnival dishes and rice pudding which was a huge portion of saffron risotto with blood orange. Very nice with great flavours but too big! We had to leave some. 

The third visit to the Dock Kitchen turned out to be my favourite – lots of different dishes, great flavours, fresh ingredients, a very friendly Stevie. I am definitely looking forward to my next visit!


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2 comments Becoming a regular at the Dock Kitchen…

[…] been dining at Stevie’s outposts. The food is in both places fantastic (read my older post on Dock Kitchen), the views are great, the philosophy extremely ethical and the design (by Tom Dixon) of both […]

[…] I have been a fan of Stevie Parle for ages, ever since I was given his first book to review years ago and started going to his first restaurant in London The Dock Kitchen. […]

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