¡Viva Cuba! Mojitos, Cigars and smiles – Cuba Part I
As soon as we arrived, tired from a long delayed flight, we went out and headed straight for the Bodeguita del Medio, a super famous, super touristy haunt which has not lost any of its character. I did not remember where, 20 years ago, I signed my name next to my family’s so we settled in the downstairs dining room for our first taste of Cuban cocina. My Tasajo Como had a nice, tangy tomato sauce and was full of peppers, but the meat alas, was a leather sole pulled apart. @bmcboy’s Pollo Cacerola was much better, and the sides were ok. Our last Cuban meal was also enjoyed here, strangely at the very same table and was a lot more enjoyable too. I had the classic Ropa Vieja and this was possibly the nicest version I had during our whole visit.
For our second dinner in Havana we chose a paladar. There are so many that was difficult to make a choice and this was primarily based on location (and reviews of course).
 |
| Starters at Dona Eutimia |
Dona Eutimia is located right in the very heart of Habana Vieja behind the Cathedral square. While its next door neighbour languishes empty despite the jineteros pulling its strings in the square, Dona Eutimia enjoys a full house, and a constant stream of punters who queue outside, mojito in hand, to get a table.
 |
| Ropa Vieja – Cocina de Lilliam |
I was in two minds as it is located a bit far in residential and green area of Miramar, around 20 minutes away in a squeaky 1948 Cadillac (25CUC there and back, with waiting time).
I must admit, it is a world apart from Dona Eutimia. A pretty house with a large garden area, yet this place reminded me more of one of those touristy roadside motel than anything else.
Full, but full only of tourists, with plastic A3 menus, this was a disappointment.
The food was good, but yet in our opinion, not worth the trip. The atmosphere was non existent while the prices were pretty high too for fairly small portions. We could not wait to get back to the rusty dusty old Havana for a mojito (what else) and a Romeo y Julieta at B del M.
 |
| Lunch before the stone |
It was going swimmingly until @bmcboy chewed on a stone in his skewers and broke his tooth in half, which saw us rush to the hospital (but this is another story…) Shame, as otherwise I would have said this had been my favourite Havana restaurant.
Our local dinner was enjoyed at our casa particular, where our wonderful host, Lumino, cooked us a typical Vinales dish, Smoked roast pork with plenty of side dishes, a black bean soup and some yucca, my special request. Large amount of food and a Cuban grand mother to watch over us, couldn’t be better. The fried yucca she furnished me with following day when we left, was the best thing ever.
 |
| Tasajo at B del M |
During our stay at beach resort Cayo Levisa, we had only hotel food – while we had read it was going to be terrible, it actually wasn’t. They even made a Parmigiana di Melanzane style bake which was better than some bland versions I have had in London, and they had a grill which dished out fresh fish and lobsters. I guiltily indulged in one of those which was of course fantastic, and very fresh (at 17CUC extra, was worth it).
But what about Cuba itself?
